A local farmer selling produce along the roadway.

It was a long, long day from Green Airport at 5:00 in the morning to Quito at 11:00 at night.  But where you're excited, who cares.  In many ways this trip was comparable to our experiences going to Singapor. Both destinations were new countries and cities, strange customs and currency, and many unknowns where the only thing we expected to find familiar was the language -- Spanish.

Our flight arrived on time in Quito, although we couldn't see much from the air in the darkness.  We had hoped to at least get a glimpse of the surrounding peaks coming into the airport.  There is only one word that can describe the international airport in Quito, and that word is "adequate."  I don't think we have ever been to an international airport in a major city anywhere in the world that compares to it.  The entire complex is no longer than a few hundred feet.  The local and international terminals are side by side in the same building, and someone with good lungs could easily walk the entire frontage while holding their breath!  Exiting from International was a breeze.   It took seconds to clear immigration and there was nobody at customs, so no stop there.  In the main lobby there was a taxi booking agent and a "cambio" booth.  After exchanging some greenbacks, we inquired about a taxi to the hotel I had reserved and was given instructions.

One word of caution here.  When exiting the terminal, make sure you do ALL your business before you leave the building.  Once you are out, you are out for good!  Nobody is allowed to enter the international arrivals area from the outside, and there are no exchange booths out side.  One of the attractions that drew Peg and I to Quito in the first place was its reputation for being inexpensive.  Our first exposure to just how inexpensive it was came with a twenty minute or so taxi ride from the airport to the hotel.  It was less than $5.00.   At that time of night, that would have been the surcharge in New York or Boston, never mind the cost of the ride.  I also must say here that the taxi drivers in Quito were some of the best and nicest we have met anywhere in the world.  I already knew that the hotel we had booked was going to be quite reasonable, but I really wasn't prepared for the surprise I was to get on my arrival.  We had made reservations at the Hotel Inca Imperial (Tel 524-BOO or 520-519; fax 521-273) before we left home based on information I obtained from the Lonely Planet guidebook.  The editors quoted a price range of $20-30 US for a private room with bath.  We thought that sounded reasonable enough for the first night or so, especially where it was centrally located and the staff spoke English.  Much to my delight I found that the Sucres (currency) had eroded to the point that the hotel rates were nearly half what we had expected.

We stayed at this hotel for our entire stay in Quito.  Five days cost us $84.00 US.  The hotel is located just off The Avenue of the 10th of August (Avenida Diez De Agosto) at Calle Bogota 219.  Whenever you book a hotel room (in the central highlands at least) ask to see it first. Management has the habit of sticking you in crummy rooms if you don't object.  I went from a real dumpy room the first night, to a beautiful room with a view of the mountains just by asking for a transfer.  The Inca is on the border between the new and old city, right close to a park and both the trolley line and busses run along 10th of August.  The staff is very helpful, and there is a restaurant off the lobby which we found is common in most hotels in the area.  Our first day in the city, we spent doing what we like best -- just roaming around taking in the new and strange sights.  Listening to chatter on the street and sampling local cuisine.  We walked well into the old city, explored the area around the Cathedral, rode a bus and trolley.  We had a fantastic meal of chicken, rice and french fries all for less than $2.00 U.S. each.

At this point in my narrative I unhappily have to issue stern and not to be ignored warnings to anyone contemplating going to Quito!   I highly recommend that unless you are a seasoned and experienced traveler, and have been to "third world countries" (I hate that term) before, DO NOT stay in Quito any longer than necessary unless you are on a guilied tour.  Under NO circumstances go roaming around the city alone!!  Peg and I have been traveling (alone) for over 30 years, been to over 25 countries including Turkey and many times to Mexico, and yet in Quito we were the victims of attempted robberies and "razor artists" not once but THREE TIMES in two days.  The only thing that saved us was that we knew from experience not to carry anything on our persons that we could not stand to lose.  We NEVER carry any more cash on us than absolutely necessary, and leave our passports, airline tickets, most credit cards and other valuables in a safe at our hotel.   That way if we do get robbed we can still function.  The first attempts came on the trolley.  The thief got into Peg's pocket and managed to steal about fifty cents.  He then attempted to lift a pair of binoculars I had on my belt.  That's when I caught him and made such a scene that he ran from the trolley.  I tried to have him arrested but it was difficult with the language barrier and all.  The third attempt came the next day as we were strolling through a market place trying to find the bus stop to go to La Mitad Del Mundo (tourist spot on the equator). 

Peg especially, was nervous after the incidents the day before and followed behind me keeping a close watch on me and my backpack, which contained lunch, and my camera.  Suddenly I heard her yell, and she came running up to me to tell me that a woman had stopped her and made a grabbing motion on her arm to tell her that thieves were in the area.  We checked our pockets and my pack and sure enough the latter had been slashed open with a razor.  I must have turned just in time as nothing was missing.  At that point we were both ready to go back to the hotel and spend the next two weeks watching TV!  One of the things that we found especially threatening in Lonely Planet was that they said the police were as bad as the crooks!  The editors emphasized the fact that the city was a den of thieves and "not to take the warnings lightly".  Peg and I were upset when we first read these admonishingly and were skeptical as to how bad things really were. After all, we had heard for years how unsafe the subway was in Mexico and yet after a dozen trips or more to that city we only had trouble once. 
We finally got to La Mitad Del Mundo by the way; and not only stood on the equator, but jumped back and forth over it in delight. One of the most attractive sights in the old city is the statue of the virgin on top of EI Panecillo.  This is obviously a religious as well as tourist attraction.  The view from the top is unparalleled in the city.  One of the curious sights that can be seen is the city cemetery below and behind the hill.  This is a very unusual spot and is well worth a visit.  Many of the graves are above ground in structures containing vaults, and the grounds are beautifully decorated.

Leading up to this virgin is a paved roadway that goes all the way to the top.  It is also accessible via a long and time consuming climb up what they call "Garcia Moreno".  Against warnings in Lonely Planet, Peg and I made this huff-puff climb to the top.  The closer to the top you get, the more places banditos can ambush you from.  When we started down, a native warned us not to go by the stairs, that they were waiting for us.  We heeded her warning and walked down the road.  This is how we discovered the cemetery.   In this experience lies just one of the many contrasts we found in this beautiful country.  Even at the very feet of Christianity, thieves lie in wait.

Once we had our fill of "city life" for awhile, we decided to take a trip out from the city.  We settled on the town of Otavalo, about three hours north of Quito.  It was here that I finally caught up with my long standing dream to see a cock fight, and I have to admit that next to watching the buns rise in the local bakery, a cock fight has to be the most boring sight I have ever seen!  Otavalo is beautiful town nestled in a valley in the mountains.  The view from the hotel roof was magnificent, and it became a ritual each morning and evening to climb the two flights to see what "mood" the mountains and the cloud gods were in.  We stayed at the Elcacique Hotel on the outskirts of the town in a great room for $9.00US for a double, bath in room w /room service (some times).   There is quite a lot to see in and around the town.  It is the site of a very lively and lovely market place every day, and especially on Saturday when the "tourismos" come to town.  This area is big in weaving, and racks and racks of ponchos, wall hangings and other products incredibly cheap hang all day on racks in the market place.  We also took several hikes in the countryside, and saw many sights unique to the country.  We followed the railroad out of town and discovered the Peguche Falls.  Also, along the river below the falls we stumbled onto a lovely park, and further down the river saw native peoples washing raw wool in the river preparing it for converting into yam.

Our experiences here, and also in the small town of Latacunga near the volcanoes just south of Quito were quite different than in Quito.  In the countryside we were able to relax completely without having to look over our shoulders constantly for thieves.  The people were beyond friendly, and a pleasure to deal with.  Peg approached the group of women washing the raw wool in the stream in the countryside and was greeted with smiles and an explanation as to what they were doing.

All in all it was a great trip and another destination we would like to return to someday.  We definitely want to see the Amazon area and the Galapagos Islands, as well as the towering peaks.