As I shifted a little occasionally trying to peek between the heads
and shoulders of the mostly Greek commuters, suddenly there it was
perched on top of a “mountain” that seemed to rise out of the maize
of 2 and 3 story buildings.
We will never forget that moment - the first time we saw it – that I
know for sure. We were jammed shoulder to shoulder on a bus from
Glifada,
north to central Athens. Crowded as the bus was, it was a chore to
see anything of the countryside we passed. We knew we were in a city
environment, but recognized nothing.
The morning sun was shinning on it from our
side, and the white stone of the Parthenon seemed to gleam in its
reflection. I think I gasped and nudged Peg (I’d hoped it was Peg),
and pointed to the ancient temple. We knew it simply as the Acropolis, and it wasn’t until later that we learned that the name
was Greek for “highest hill”: and the highest hill it was. With
steep cliffs on two sides, it appeared insurmountable.
I’m sure all serious travelers will agree
with us when we say that there are certain sights that seem to etch
themselves into our “special places” memories more than others. That
sight certainly has for us. It is something never to be forgotten.
The bus rounded a corner, and we lost sight
of the edifice almost as soon as Peg got her glimpse. We rumbled on,
until finally the bus stopped, and everyone disembarked. To us that
meant only one thing: end of the line.
It was our very first trip to Greece, and
the prelude to years of wonderful adventures that were to follow.
We had landed the day before, and had gone
to our hotel reservation in Glifada: that turned out to be a
disaster. On arriving, we learned that our room had no hot water or
shower, and it was quite shabby.
We searched the area, until we found a
better place to rest our weary bodies. Early the next morning, we
boarded the bus for Athens.
We didn’t realize it at the time, but the
place the bus let us off was probably the best location in the
entire city. Studying our map, we discovered that we were in
Thission Square, a location just adjacent to an ancient
archeological site, and within view of the Parthenon.
We discovered a gem of a hotel just off the
square, and settled into our room which was in a corner of the
building. There was no a/c, but the small balconies on two sides
allowed a cooling breeze to circulate in the evening.
We were overwhelmed with awe the first time
we walked out onto the front balcony, and there before our eyes was
the Parthenon in full view only a half mile or so away. To say we
were ecstatic was putting it mildly. On top of that, our room was a
fraction of the cost of “Americanized” hotels in the city.
In broken English, our friendly desk clerk
provided a wealth of information to us on exploring his native city,
and armed with our Greek to English directory and our guidebook, we
set out to explore.
Just up the street on the way to the
Acropolis, as our desk clerk had informed us, we passed a small cave
by the side of the road. There were crude steps hacked out of the
stone leading down to it, and this was the place that Socrates had
been imprisoned and died thousands of years ago.
We followed the walkway up the hill to the
Parthenon, and I’m sure our enthusiasm showed plainly. There we
were, standing at one of the most revered and famous places in the
world. Long recognized as a classic example of construction, the
Parthenon stands by its self, along with a small number of other
elite buildings around the world.
Constructed nearly 2500 years ago, we were
amazed to learn that the structure had been intact until the year
1687, when during a war the magnificent building was used as a
storehouse for ammunition. During a bombardment, a shell landed on
the temple, resulting in a catastrophic explosion that blew off the
roof, knocked down many of the columns and statues, and effectively
destroyed one of the most magnificent structures ever constructed by
man.
Even in its state of ruin, what remains
still evokes visions of grandeur, and of an elite civilization. Peg
and I wandered around the site, noting the massive chunks of stone
that had traveled hundreds of feet from the blast. A slow and
painlessly exacting attempt is being made to restore the temple, but
at the rate the project is progressing, it will take centuries.
As we wandered, I recalled a story told to
us by a friend back home. She had been here a few years before, and
while walking around the site, she had kicked up a clump of dirt,
and behold there was an ancient Greek coin lying there. Needless to
say I kept a close watch on where I walked, but no such luck.
After the exciting but hot afternoon spent
on the Acropolis, we returned to our room for a “siesta”. It didn’t
take us long to discover that here in Greece, as in most of the
Mediterranean countries, the custom was still quite alive. Many
shops and stores closed during the heat of the afternoon, and
reopened in the evening. When I say heat of the day, it was
torturous at times. I’m sure we experienced temperatures in access
of 120 degrees even out on the Islands in the Aegean Sea.
Not long after our arrival in Athens, we
discovered the most delightful spot to dine. Around the corner from
our hotel, on what amounted to a median strip between two
intersecting streets, we found our first wonderful Greek restaurant.
The view made the location a prime spot. There were only a few
tables, but we could watch the incredible flow of pedestrians and
vehicles pass while we dined. Also in view, was the park where the
ancient Agora was, and the Temple of Hephaestus stood, still in good
shape.
A magnificent meal of
pastitsio,
moussaka
and a salad of tomatoes, cucumbers and feta cheese swimming in olive
oil washed down with our favorite wine served cold –
Domestica –
made for never to be forgotten experience that we duplicated time
and time again.
Another sight from our balcony that became
more and more intriguing as time went on, was partially hidden in
smog much of the time. It appeared as a large hill that jutted above
the city. Obviously there was a large building on the top. We
consulted our guidebook, and learned that it was called
Likavitos.
We got on a bus, and off we went to investigate.
Likavitos was actually the highest hill in
Athens, but evidently was outside the city limits at the time the
Parthenon was built. The bus dropped us off at the base of the
“mountain”, and we proceeded to climb to the top, following a
narrow, tortuous trail up the forested slopes. There we found the
Chapel of St. George, along with a tabepma (tavern). After the long,
hot walk, we weren’t really interested in the Chapel, that is, not
until we had downed several cold beers.
Over the following years, we thoroughly
explored the cities every secret – at least the ones that interested
us.
Athens and the Parthenon waited over 2000
years for us to show up and critique its splendor. We only hope that
it can withstand the ravages of time until our children and
grandchildren can explore its secrets and past glory, and enjoy its
treasures.