Flag of the Isle of Man, a British Crown Dependency

Islands of Intrigue:  Isle of Mann


by Bob Haigis, August 2001

 I often feel blessed in having been afforded the privilege of going to some of the world’s most intriguing places; locations that the uninformed tourists bypass. If they only knew! For example, Peg and I have now explored both the Isle of Man (Mann), and the Isle of Women (Isla Mujeres). The names sound as if they should be brother and sister within swimming or even walking distance of each other. In reality it’s about a seven thousand-mile swim from one to the other. IOM is located in the Irish Sea, mid way between England and Ireland, while Isla Mujeres is just off Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula.

Both locations have intriguing, sometimes violent histories that emerged from the mists of time. Isla Mujeres’ includes ancient Mayan sacrifices and pirates. Legends suggest that the Isle of Man was created when the island was hurled into the sea by the Irish giant Finn Mac Coole. In any event, its history begins somewhere in the time of Stone Age man, evolves with Celts and eventually the Vikings occupation of which much of modern day life on the island shows evidence of. It is complete with castles, and a national flag whose origin is lost in antiquity. In addition, the commonly used name Manx has a dozen or more connotations.

IOM can be reached by air or by ferry. As we had a car, Peg and I took the short trip over on the ferry from Liverpool, on a glassy sea. One of the first sights that greeted us after disembarking from the ferry in Douglas, was an ancient horse drawn tram. In fact, it didn’t take much research or sight seeing to realize that indeed, much of the Island was still time locked in the late nineteenth century – the Victorian age.

The tram is more than a delightful curiosity for tourists. It is a working, dependable means of transportation for the local folks, and runs the full length of the Douglas Promenade (main front street). It uses the original open sided cars on the same rails that were constructed and laid back in 1876.

Just spending a few days on the Island, we were greatly impressed with the working systems that date back to that wonderful era. We rode on the IOM Steam Railway, which is the longest narrow-gauge steam route in the British Isles. The one-hour trip from Douglas to Port Erin at the western end of the island takes the same time it did back over 100 years ago when the system was inaugurated.

Much quieter and minus the smoke and cinders flying about, was a jaunt on the Manx Electric Railway, which leaves from the Northern end of Douglas Promenade near Derby Castle and terminates in Ramsey. The 1890s vintage system is still nearly intact, and it takes about 90 minutes to complete the run. There is only one scheduled stop on this route, and that is at Laxey. It is here that the change is made for the train that ascends Mt. Snaefell, the highest point on the island.

It was in Laxey that Peg and I were astounded at three more pieces of living history that were in perfect working order. We were having lunch at a delightful outdoor pub, when our conversation was drowned out by the most assaulting din coming from a near by street. We watched in awe as a coal powered, steam driven tractor, and its escort, a steam driven crane, moved a statue from its location to a storage shed near by. Chatting with the operator of the tractor, I learned that they were the local DPW, and using the ancient equipment was all in a day’s work.

A short walk from the stop at Laxey in the delightful weather brought us to the site of the Great Laxey Mines. This thriving industry of the nineteenth century, produced lead, copper, zinc and silver, generating incredible earnings. A piece of its former glory is still operating at the site. Named "Lady Isabella" after the Governors wife in 1854, at 227 ft. across, it is the biggest working water wheel in the world, and is still performing the function which it was originally designed. The wheel is a self-perpetuating pump that draws water out of the mine shafts as deep as two thousand feet below ground, and then turns its self with the water discharged.

From the top of Mt. Snaefell at over two thousand feet, local folklore declares that on a clear day one can see six kingdoms - England, Ireland, Scotland, Wales, and Mann …and, for those whose eyes are clear of hate, and hearts are full of love - the kingdom of God. Now, that’s a sight for sore eyes!

Next time, we’ll explore the Isle of Women.

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