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Islands of Intrigue III,
Singapore

by Bob Haigis, August 2001

One of the most interesting places Peg and I have ever visited, is the island of Singapore. Situated about 20 miles north of the equator, and just off the southernmost tip of Malaysia, this jewel of the orient has been involved in worldwide politics for centuries. We were there in the fall of ’98, and witnessed first hand the devastation caused by that now well-known phenomenon called El Nino. Fires set in Sumatra and Indonesia had gotten completely out of control when the annual monsoon failed to materialize, and we never saw the sun clearly for the entire time we stayed on the island – about two weeks. Luckily, we were able to get up to Thailand where the air was clear. The smoke was so heavy, that it was seen over a thousand miles away in the Philippines.

One of the benefits we derive from travel is that no matter where we go we learn interesting facts about far away places and people that we never would have been exposed to otherwise. For example, I was stunned to see in the National Zoo in Singapore an animal that I would never have believed could live there; a Polar Bear! The minute I saw the animal lazily sunning its self in an outside cage, I thought to my self, “wow, here is a creature that normally lives above the Arctic Circle in the coldest places on Earth, and here is one completely at home 20 miles from the equator in a sticky, muggy climate that seldom dips below 90 degrees. And we think WE are adaptable”. We also found some of the history of the Island very interesting.

When the Japanese invaded the island in February of 1942, they came down through Malaysia on bicycles. The Island was under British, control at the time, and the inhabitants were living in a dream world. Life was good in Singapore in 1941, and the inhabitants closed their minds to any possibility that they would be invaded and incorporated into the rapidly expanding imperial empire. How wrong they were!

By the time the powers that were realized that invasion was imminent, it was too late. English military might was too far away to help, and besides it was concentrated on defending the British Isles from Nazi Germany.

On another smaller island just south of Singapore is one of the most interesting parks we have ever seen. Sentosa is best reached via the cable cars that travel 266 ft. above the water offering a magnificent view of the incredibly busy seaport. Literally hundreds of ships can be seen loading and unloading while others lie at anchor waiting their turn. Thousands of cargo containers are stacked along the dock storage areas in such a fashion that one wonders how they will ever be moved out.

The park, which encompasses an aquarium, an insectarium, swimming lagoon, golf courses, and much more, is also home to a huge Merlion, which is the symbol of Singapore. Legend has it that early explorers to the Island glimpsed the monster lurking in the impenetrable jungle. It was described as a huge fish body with a lion’s head.

Also now incorporated into the park, is Fort Siloso. This fort was Britain’s principal defense for invasion from the sea, which was where they expected the Japanese to appear if they in fact did invade. Coming from the North, the big guns of the fort were facing the wrong direction, and the city fell in less than a week. The fort has been restored and manikins and a sound system present an impressive display on how the fort was operated sixty years ago.

Immediately on occupying the Island, the Japanese set about rounding up all the inhabitants. The Chinese population, which was already at war with Japan, was mostly killed or deported while the British, Australians and other “foreigners” were impounded in Changi Prison; all 85,000 of them. The lucky ones stayed in the prison for the duration of the war where many died from starvation and disease. The unlucky ones were taken out and used for slave labor on the Burma Rail Road. There were very few survivors from this project.

At the site of the prison is an extremely interesting and moving museum that pays tribute to those incarcerated there so long ago. Of special interest is the replica of the prison chapel that was erected by the prisoners. There are hundreds of letters and also sketches of prison life done by prisoners that are on display.

A sight that should not be missed by anyone visiting the island, is the world class sound and light program at Sentosa Park. Each evening, just after dark, a fantastic display of laser beams played on a water curtain and accompanied by classical music played over a sound system is presented to the public.

Also of special interest on the island are the many temples, wats, mosques and pagodas that can generally be visited by tourists. And of course, the ultra modern city center is as impressive as any in the world. Singapore is certainly an island of intrigue.