Chichen-Itza with its fabled pyramids and temples is possibly the most visited ancient site in Central America. Busloads by the hundreds drop off tourists to wander the 4 sq. miles of cleared space each year, and marvel at both the remarkable construction and the effort that must have been expended to expose the site.

Most of the Yucatan is flat impenetrable jungle that effectively keeps out unwanted visitors. The ever hot, sticky, buggy environment is certainly unattractive to modern day man. The coastal areas are a different story.

Much of the shore area is swampy low-land, and is susceptible to the ever-present threat of major storms that come howling out of the Caribbean. Not too many years ago, a hurricane ripped across the island of Cozumel with winds of over 140 mph. It destroyed countless homes on the island and then slammed into the jungles of the Yucatan with a storm surge that inundated any low-lying coastal areas. That was the year that Peg and I took our never to be for- gotten kayak trip from Playa del Carmen south along the shore.

We had discovered the hidden secrets of the undeveloped shore several years before. We learned that one of the natural formations that made the East Coast of the Yucatan so popular for development, was the existence of off shore coral reefs and barrier beaches. Any place these existed, often accompanied by stretches of sandy beach on the shore, the government was constructing tourist resorts. Cancun and now Playa del Carmen are examples of such development. Tens of thousands visit these and other resorts along the shore each year. However, between these centers, are miles of unpopulated coastline, great for wilderness exploring.

Cancun was the only major resort along the entire coast the year of our trip. We launched our Klepper Folding Kayak at the town pier in Playa, loaded it with provisions, and headed south. At that time, cruise ships were just beginning to discover the place, and they would anchor off shore between Cozumel and Playa del Carmen and send boat loads of tourists to both locations.

Peg and I paddled south, hoping to get to Belize, pack up the kayak, and take a bus back to Cancun. As we cruised just off shore, it became increasingly apparent how deserted most of the shoreline was. Much of it was protected by jagged sharp rock that would have been impossible to land on in the event of a problem. We would pass miles of this inhospitable coast, and suddenly in the distance we would see waves breaking over a reef and we know safe harbor was close at hand. The devastation of the storm was ever present also, with numerous trees toppled, and an occasional boat tossed up on the shore.

We usually camped on the beaches these reefs protected, and sometimes spent a day or so relaxing and enjoying the sun and scenery. I remember one such beach called Ix-pu-ha that we enjoyed for three days. The owners had a fantastic restaurant near by, and we walked up a long muddy track through the jungle for our evening meal each day.

In another place, there was a huge rock on the beach, and we pitched our tent next to it in the lee of the strong wind that blew from the south. There a couple of Iguanas that lived in crevices in the rock, and we would surprise them sunning in the open. The instant they spotted us, they would scurry back into their holes in the rock.

One thing we learned quickly while on land, and that was to be aware of the ever-present danger of falling coconuts ...coco bombs we dubbed them.   In many places coconut palms line the shore, and especially in windy conditions frequently their fruit makes trips to the ground. A parking lot we walked through atone of our stops contained several vehicles with their windshields caved in. I have no doubt that being struck by one of these missiles could very well be fatal.

We were paddling along one day, watching dolphins shoot by and sea birds diving around us, when Peg spotted an opening in the rock ahead of us. We headed for the gap, and were astounded to find a restaurant built of the native grasses perched on a cliff top above a small cove. Nearby was one of the large, deep caverns of fresh water that abound in the area, and several people were diving in it. We anchored our boat, and experienced one of the most delicious meals we had on the entire trip. Chicken, refried beans, tortillas, salad and the most fantastic guacamole we have ever had were all washed down with cold Carona.

It was interesting to see ancient Maya stone lookout towers spaced along the shoreline. Obviously used to keep watch for intruders approaching from the sea. We stopped at Tulum to stretch and see the ruins again. We had been there the previous year, and found the site interesting. A huge pile of fallen branches and trees again bore witness to the ferocity of the storm.

Two days later, we put into a campground right on the beach, and had to stay put for the next four days as a gale pounded the shore. No rain fell, but the wind and waves would have been treacherous to venture out in. We had spray skirts for our kayak, but just the off chance of getting swamped along the jagged shore convinced me that it would be foolhardy to attempt continuing. The wind was so bad we had to move our tent back from the shore to seek some protection. Another American couple we met had theirs ripped in half from the gale.

Besides, the campground cost only twenty-five cents a day (when they bothered to collect the fee), and there was a restaurant and bar right there. OLE!

Every day a truck would visit the place to sell fresh vegetables to the campers. Reluctantly we decided to abandon our goal of La Ahupado on the Belize border, and return to Playa the way we had come. The seas calmed down somewhat, and we headed back. As luck would have it, the day we pulled back into Playa del Carmen and wind died away completely.

Oh well, we had experienced a wonderful trip. We were privileged to see the deserted coast of the Yucatan in a way few will ever get to see it.   Just being able to view the wild coastal areas and the ancient Maya sites made the effort expended to get there well worth it.